Fat Guy Update V

I signed up for the Fat Guy Contest on a Tuesday, but didn't start actually doing anything until the following Saturday. Today is Friday and I just back from the gym which means that I've been doing this thing officially for two weeks now.

My weight this morning was 206.4 lbs, making me 6.2 lbs lighter than I was two weeks ago.

My work out regimen is simple. I run on the treadmill for 60 minutes each day, lift weights every third or fourth day, and do my regular extracurricular activities, like playing coed soccer and refereeing the occasional game.

I've started to begin thinking about possibly considering working on my diet because some of my friends have told me I don't eat well. They might be on to something. For example, last night my dinner consisted of fried beef lumpia and four Bud Lites. There is a slight possibility that there are healthier foods on this island. LIke I said, I've started to begin thinking about possibly considering looking into finding them.

In the meantime, I'll just flash Blue Steel:

Stay Tuned: Fat Guy Update VI will discuss what happens to your skin when you lose a few lbs too quickly.

Monument Benefits Now

Agnes McPhetres wrote a letter to the editor today reminding everyone that we need to go after the visitors center if we want one. No need to rehash the benefits a visitors center would bring, what needs to be understood is that the visitors center won't build itself. It is going to take a lot of people in the government and private sector going after the federal dollars to get it built.

In a struggling tourist economy, nothing could be better than using federal dollars to build an added tourist attraction. Marianas Visitors Authority calls it "destination enhancement."

It has been nearly two months since then-President Bush declared the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument. As promised, the monument resulted in worldwide attention for the natural wonders of the Marianas. News outlets in countries as far away and as diverse as Kuwait, Zimbabwe, Fiji, England, and Japan gave our monument room on their pages. The Marianas garnered more positive press in the first half of January that we have in the last 10 years. This attention will help us solidify a reputation as an eco-friendly tourist destination.

It is now time for us to turn our attention toward getting the other benefits promised when the monument was declared.

Specifically, the Bush administration promised us a visitors center, federal jobs, and an enforcement/research boat. When can we expect to get those benefits? Can the construction of a visitors center be considered part of Obama’s stimulus plan?

A visitors center will improve our ability to attract tourists. It would serve as an additional attraction for tourists, plus our local children would gain educational benefits from its creation. The sooner the process to build a visitors center begins, the better.

When I agreed to support the monument, it was with the understanding that there would be benefits for the CNMI. I am very worried that these benefits will end up in Guam.

AGNES M. MCPHETRES
San Vicente, Saipan

The Friends of the Monument are dedicated to getting the benefits they asked for in their October Vision Statement and they need your help.

Micronesia to Obama: Follow our Lead

During tomorrow's business meeting of the US Coral Reef Task Force in Washington DC, the Executive Director of the Coral Reef Alliance will be presenting Recommendations for Coral Reef Conservation to the Obama Administration and the 111th Congress. This document represents a collaborative, cross-NGO set of recommendations for swift and decisive action by the Obama Administration and Congress for responding to the global coral reef crisis.

Two Micronesians have attached their names and their organizations to this call for action. One is Ignacio V. Cabrera, Chairman of the Friends of the Monument. The other is yours truly, signing as the Executive Director of Beautify CNMI.

Here is the letter, posted in its entirety:

Recommendations for Coral Reef Conservation

To the Obama Administration and the 111th Congress

Healthy coral reefs are the largest living structures on the planet and the second largest storehouse of biological diversity. These highly productive ecosystems are economically valuable, with reef-based tourism generating over $1.2 billion each year in the Florida Keys alone. Coral reefs provide coastal protection, food, and income, supporting the livelihoods of approximately 100 million people around the world.

However, coral reefs in the United States and worldwide are declining at an alarming rate. Unless we take immediate action, we could lose up to 70 percent of the world’s coral reefs by 2050. Human activities have damaged coral reefs to the point of being the most threatened ecosystem on Earth; they are currently teetering on the edge of destruction. Fortunately, three major human impacts on reefs—climate change, overfishing, and pollution—are reversible if we act now. As noted undersea explorer Dr. Sylvia Earle has stated: “If reefs are in trouble, we are in trouble.”

We are encouraged by indications that the Obama Administration and the new Congress will establish a serious commitment to coral reef conservation through the appointment of Dr. Jane Lubchenco–a distinguished ocean scientist with a strong track record in ocean conservation–to lead the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). We also see a tremendous opportunity for the United States to continue its leadership role in helping to reverse the downward spiral of coral reef destruction and ensure the health and survival of these invaluable resources for future generations.

We urge the Administration to adopt the strongest possible measures for the protection and conservation of coral reef ecosystems and stand ready to partner with the new administration in designing and implementing an effective and global coral reef conservation strategy. Such measures could include the following:

• Reauthorize the U.S. Coral Reef Conservation Act of 2000, including authorizing international coral reef conservation activities;

• Support passage of the Federal Ocean Acidification Research and Monitoring Act;

• Enact meaningful reductions in carbon dioxide emissions that target CO2 concentrations to stabilize at levels climate scientists determine are necessary to preserve coral reef ecosystems;

• Fund and lead domestic and international coral reef conservation efforts through NOAA, USAID, EPA, the Department of the Interior, and the State Department;

• Support NOAA’s priorities in reducing impacts to coral reefs from fishing and land-based sources of pollution;

• Effectively conserve at least 30 percent of coral reef and reef-associated coastal resources in U.S. states and territories using marine managed areas over the next eight years; and

• Provide more support for ocean education and citizen-science programs to create an educated public that understands and is committed to ocean conservation.

Reauthorize the U.S. Coral Reef Conservation Act of 2000
The reauthorization of the Coral Reef Conservation Act must be a priority for the 111th Congress during 2009. The act was established in 2000 to preserve coral reef ecosystems, promote wise management, and obtain better information about
the current condition of coral reefs. As a result of this act, millions of Americans have been educated about the coral reef crisis, research has documented the threats and damage, and large areas such as the Northwest Hawaiian Islands have been protected. It is critical to continue this work to give reefs any chance to survive and to expand similar strategies around the world by authorizing activities for international coral reef conservation.

Support passage of the Federal Ocean Acidification Research and Monitoring Act
Increasing CO2 in the world’s atmosphere is taking its toll on the oceans by increasing the acidity of sea water, which in turn threatens the stability of the marine food chain and the ability of corals to build reefs. Essentially, as the oceans increase in acidity it becomes more difficult for animals such as scallops, clams, crabs, plankton and corals to build their shells or skeletons and slows the development of their larvae. The Federal Ocean Acidification Research and Monitoring Act focuses federal research on rising ocean acidity and establishes a comprehensive research and monitoring program within NOAA.

Enact Meaningful Reductions in Carbon Dioxide Emissions that Target CO2 Concentrations to Stabilize at Levels Climate Scientists Determine are Necessary
In 2007, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change concluded that deep reductions in greenhouse gas emissions must be prioritized. Without action, atmospheric carbon dioxide (CO2) concentration is expected to exceed 500 parts per million (ppm) between 2050 and 2100, and global temperatures will likely rise by at least 2°C. Under these conditions, global warming and ocean acidification are predicted to damage and kill most reefs. We urge the federal government to take aggressive action to reduce emissions now–action that can serve as a benchmark for international leadership.

Fund and Lead Domestic and International Coral Reef Conservation Efforts through NOAA, USAID, EPA, the Department of the Interior, and the State Department
With the recent addition of the Marianas Trench, Pacific Remote Islands, and Rose Atoll Marine National Monuments, ensuring adequate capacity for management and monitoring of these and other domestic coral resources has never been more critical. The United States should also provide increased leadership in international and national coral reef conservation efforts. As increasing areas of reefs are damaged, tens of millions of people around the world will become desperate for food in countries that are critically important for global stability. Stopping coral reef destruction now and investing in conservation is an investment in global security.

Support NOAA’s Priorities in Reducing Impacts to Coral Reefs from Fishing and Land-based Sources of Pollution
Along with large-scale threats resulting from climate change, NOAA has identified land-based sources of pollution and impacts from fishing as priority areas for coral reef conservation. Land-based sources of pollution and poor water quality are recognized as two of the most important factors driving coral reef decline. In addition, rapid human population increases, growth of export fisheries, use of more efficient fishery gear, expansion of destructive fishing techniques, and inadequate management and enforcement have led to the depletion of not only keystone reef fish species, but also associated species and ecosystems. For these reasons, we recommend expanded funding and legislative capacity for NOAA to better manage recreational and commercial fisheries and land-based sources of pollution to meet coral reef conservation objectives.

Effectively Conserve at Least 30 Percent of Coral Reef and Reef-Associated Coastal Resources in U.S. States and Territories Using Marine Managed Areas over the Next Eight Years
Full protection of at least 30 percent of the planet’s coral reefs from human activities is a reasonable and realistic management goal that will allow reefs to thrive. On November 5, 2005, then President Tommy E. Remengesau, Jr., of Palau called on his peers to join him in the Micronesia Challenge to effectively conserve 30 percent of near-shore marine resources within marine protected areas by 2020. Similarly, Caribbean governments have called for 20 percent protection of marine and coastal habitats by 2020 in the Caribbean Challenge. We ask for the United States to join the many nations that recognize the importance of marine managed areas for effective coral reef conservation and provide the staff and funding needed for active research, monitoring, enforcement, and local management.

Provide More Support for Ocean Education and Citizen-Science Programs
By becoming educated about the value of coral reefs and threats to their survival, the public can become strong advocates for conservation and sustainability. One of the most effective means of education is a citizen-science program that turns
hands-on experience into knowledge. As a leader in marine conservation, the new administration should provide increased support for ocean education and citizen-science programs in the United States and internationally.

Respectfully,



Core Signatories
Angelo Villagomez, Executive Director, Beautify CNMI
Brendan Cummings, Oceans Program Director, Center for Biological Diversity
Roger McManus, Vice President for Marine Programs, Conservation International
Brian Huse, Executive Director, Coral Reef Alliance (CORAL)
Ignacio V. Cabrera, Chair, Friends of the Monument
Kristian Teleki, Director, International Coral Reef Action Network (ICRAN)
Carolyn Stewart, Executive Director, Malama Kai Foundation
Mark Spaulding, Executive Director, The Ocean Foundation
Jenny Miller Garmendia, Director, Project AWARE Foundation
Liz Foote, Executive Director, Project SEA Link
Gregor Hodgson, Executive Director, Reef Check
Bill Eichbaum, Vice President of Marine Portfolio, World Wildlife Fund-US (WWF)

I highlighted what I consider to be the most significant recommendation, at least from my little rock in the sun. I think it is significant that two Micronesians are challenging the President of the United States to meet what one day could become the "American Challenge."

The Micronesia Challenge, which seeks to effectively conserve 30% of our nearshore resources and 20% of our terrestrial resources by 2020, has received lots of attention over the last several years, including former President Tommy E. Remengesau, Jr of Palau, the man behind the Micronesia Challenge, being recognized by Time Magazine as one of the "Heroes of the Environment" in 2007.

Palau, the Marianas, and the rest of Micronesia are Small Island Nations, or as I prefer to call them, Large Ocean Nations. Our populations are small and our conservation budgets are smaller, but every single day we live with the environment. Unlike large developed nations that have a concept of the environment as someplace far away (i.e. Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument or Arctic National Wildlife Refuge), the environment for Micronesians is literally in our front yard. Local people catch their dinners on the beach 50 meters from my apartment. If we don't act as good stewards of our environment, we don't eat.

The environment in Saipan is central to our economy. Not only do we depend on healthy populations of fish to feed our families, but our economy is heavily dependent on tourism. Additionally, the environment, our ocean, our beaches, and our green forests, are consistently cited as the main attractions for tourists in the Marianas. Those tourists spend money and create jobs, which in turn generates tax revenue to support all those people in government jobs.

These ideas deserve to be explored further, which I will do in the near future. This post was really just meant to post the letter.

I hope that the Obama administration takes these recommendations seriously and I hope that he recognizes and considers the Large Ocean Nations that will live with his decisions. As with Climate Change, we'll feel the effects of poor policy sooner and with more intensity than the richer, larger, more developed nations.

Correction Needed

There are still media stories being written claiming that our leaders and our people were against the declaration of the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument. New Scientist magazine writes:

The Pew group bankrolled and was key in promoting one of George W. Bush's last acts as US president. Despite protests from local island leaders, Bush declared the Mariana trench in the Pacific Ocean a national monument, even though it extends 80 kilometres beyond US territorial waters.

I would like to offer the following photo as evidence to counter the inaccurate claims made by New Scientist:

This is a picture of former President George W. Bush and CNMI Governor Benigno R. Fitial moments after the declaration of the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument. In case you can not decipher what is going on in the photo, Governor Fitial is hugging Mr. Bush.

New Scientist should issue a retraction and report that our monument was supported by our Governor, Legislature, Chamber of Commerce, Hotel Association, and a majority of our residents.

Resume Cover Letter

I had a job interview over the phone today. I was pretty nervous and now that it's done I feel relieved. I was asked questions about school and work, the usual stuff, and why I wanted the job. I'll find out in a few days or so if I got the job.

In the meantime, do you want to read my cover letter?

Hafa Adai XXXXXXX,

[snip]

I believe that I am qualified for the position based on my education and the work I have accomplished in Saipan over the last three years. I returned to Saipan the year after graduating from Rollins College to work on a coral reef outreach project. In that time I have gained experience writing press releases, newspaper articles, websites, and blogs. I have also managed letter writing and signature gathering campaigns. Additionally, I have managed email lists for activists, volunteers, and media contacts, including the entire email list for the League of Conservation Voters in Florida.

Some of my work has led to national recognition. In 2007, Beautify CNMI, an environmental coalition I helped create and still coordinate, received an EPA Environmental Award and Friends of the Mariana Islands, a small dedicated group of environmental volunteers of which I am a special advisor and volunteer, received an Earth Team award from USDA

In 2008 I was the local lead on a successful campaign to convince President Bush to designate a Marianas Trench Marine National Monument, a conservation area the size of Spain. In order to gain his support we waged a multi-faceted local campaign, which led to our governor, legislature, business community, and over 6000 residents supporting the monument. This campaign was covered in over 1000 newspapers and garnered unprecedented media attention for the Marianas.

In addition to being qualified for the position, I have many ties to the region. I was born on Guam and having family living throughout the region. I am also a member of Micronesians in Island Conservation, a learning network for conservationists in the region.

Thank you for taking the time to consider me as a candidate.

I can provide references upon request.

Si yu'use ma'ase,

Angelo Villagomez

I cut off the top paragraph so that you won't know what job I'm applying for.

Campaign Time Again

Alexie Zotomayor, one of the Friends of the Monument and the author of Boon or Bane, had a letter to the editor appear in the Saipan Tribune today.

Rebranding the CNMI as a destination

With the establishment of the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument the CNMI has the opportunity to rebrand itself as a travel destination.

Although it is not a fully protected marine reserve, the monument is one of the world’s largest protected areas. This in itself is not something that will attract tourists to our shores. We have to give people a reason to want to visit the monument and our islands.

Saipan could sell itself as "The Gateway to the Mariana Trench." The stores in Garapan could sell t-shirts that read, "I dove the Marianas Trench." Maybe one day submersibles could take tourists to the underwater eruptions off the coast of Rota.

This will require a lot of work, and communities, businesses, and the government will have to contribute to the change.

One of the first steps toward this rebranding is for the federal government to build a Marianas Trench Marine National Monument visitors center. Half-museum, half-aquarium, the visitors center could and should be one of the premier tourism destinations in the Pacific.

I hope that our leaders on Capital Hill and in Washington, D.C. are working with the federal government to bring the visitors center to Saipan.

Alexie Villegas Zotomayor
Chinatown, Saipan

There is a concern among certain people that a lot of the benefits of the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument will end up in Guam because the monument boundaries extend into some of the Federal waters close to Guam. The Bush Administration, through his Council of Environmental Quality Chairman James Connaughton, promised the CNMI that they would have a seat at the table (check), untold worldwide media attention (check), a visitors center, a research/enforcement boat, and federal jobs.

The NOAA Sanctuaries people in Hawai'i know about these promises because during the campaign the Friends of the Monument sent them copies of every letter they wrote. Since we assumed that NOAA Sanctuaries would manage the monument, nobody took the time to do any work with anybody at US Fish & Wildlife Service, so they probably have no idea what conversations took place during the process to create the monument. The situation is also complicated by the fact that the key people we worked with in the Bush Administration have since been replaced by the Obama Administration. Some of the key players haven't even been replaced yet, either, like the Secretary of Commerce.

The Friends of the Monument consider themselves the "guardians" of the Marianas Trench and they are going to work hard to ensure that the benefits promised to the CNMI come to fruition.

Fat Guy Update IV

"It's just water weight, fat boy" is the typical response I get when I mention I've burned a few lbs. since signing up for the Golds Gym Body Success Challenge. I've lost just under six lbs. in two weeks and I'd probably have lost a few more if my diet wasn't so terrible.

I had McDonald's twice this weekend. I have a weak spot for Buffalo wings and I get my fix with the chicken strips and Buffalo dipping sauce. Then a certain friend, who shall remain anonymous (no, not Lil' Hammerhead), made me go to McDonald's for chicken nuggets. She rammed them down my throat as I screamed, "No, stop, don't!"

Oh wait, no. That's not how it happened. I rammed them down my own throat as she screamed, "Hey, leave one for me!"

I'm still trying to run 60 minutes per day. I didn't get a run in on Saturday, but I did referee women's soccer games for 90 minutes, so I don't feel too guilty. On Sunday I only got in 30 minutes before my right leg started cramping. Today it started cramping at 50. I'll probably have to slow down the runs so that I reach that 60 minute mark the rest of the week. Every day before this weekend though, I got in the full 60 minutes.

I also did some weights today. Amazing how weak you get when you don't go to the gym for two years. More on that later.

High School Flashbacks

I was tagged on Facebook by a former resident of Saipan. I have a good answer for #27, so I am going to fill this one out. Facebook will pull the RSS feed from my blog and automatically post this. I'll go back into facebook and tag 10 people after it posts (I think you can do that).

Here it goes:

Fill this out about your high school life! The longer ago it was, the more fun the answers will be!! At the end, choose 10 people (or more) to be tagged. You have to tag the person who tagged you. If I tagged you, it's because I want to know more about you.


IN HIGH SCHOOL DID YOU...

1.DID YOU DATE SOMEONE FROM YOUR SCHOOL?
In the 10th grade I dated a girl named Laura. I think we were together for three days before we broke up. She was my only girlfriend in high school as I was terrified of women until I was about 25.

2. DID YOU MARRY SOMEONE FROM YOUR HIGH SCHOOL?
No wife. No kids. No debt. No kidding.

3. DID YOU CARPOOL TO SCHOOL?
Freshman year I drove to school with my cousins, Chris and Jamie. I walked Sophmore year. Junior year I got a ride from Forrest down the street. Senior year I drove my neighbor, Craig, and my friend, Steve.

4. WHAT KIND OF CAR DID YOU HAVE?
I bought an 88 Honda Civic my senior year for $3000.

5. WHAT KIND OF CAR DO YOU HAVE NOW?
I have a rusted out 96 Jeep Cherokee that I bought for $3000.

6. IT'S SATURDAY NIGHT... WHERE WERE YOU THEN?
Showalter Field, getting ready for the 1600 m run.

7. IT'S SATURDAY NIGHT... WHERE ARE YOU NOW?
Godfathers.

8. WHERE DID YOU WORK?
Senior year I worked at the Magic Kingdom. I worked Parade Audience Control, then Splash Mountain, and then Entertainment. I was in Spectromagic almost every night.

9. WHAT KIND OF JOB DO YOU DO NOW?
I'm actually unemployed at the moment, but I'm an environmentalist.

10. WERE YOU A PARTY ANIMAL?
Not at all. I didn't drink a drop of alcohol until college and I've never done drugs.

11. WERE YOU CONSIDERED A FLIRT?
I was considered a social retard.

12. WHAT EXTRA CURRICULAR ACTIVITIES WERE YOU IN?
I ran Cross Country and Track, played Soccer one year, and dabbled in Student Council and International Club.  I also belonged to a Karate dojo, but that was outside of school.

13. WHERE YOU A NERD?
Hell YES!!! I collected baseball cards, took 5 AP classes Senior year and got a 1470 on my SAT. I was a super-ultra-mega nerd.

14. DID YOU GET SUSPENDED OR EXPELLED?
Not even close.

15. FAVORITE HIGH SCHOOL MEMORY?
Probably the 4x400 m race at the Regional Track Meet Junior year. That story was published in the Marianas Variety and republished on my blog two years ago.

16. WHAT WERE YOUR FAVORITE SUBJECTS?
Physics and Math.  I hated English and Chemistry.

17. WHO WERE YOUR BEST FRIENDS?
Steve, Joe, and Juan

18. WHAT WAS YOUR SCHOOL'S FULL NAME & MASCOT?
Winter Park High School Wildcats

19. WHAT YEAR DID YOU GRADUATE?
1996

20. WORST HIGH SCHOOL MEMORY?
I really hated moving to Florida in the 9th grade. Things eventually got better.

21. IF YOU COULD GO BACK AND DO IT AGAIN, WOULD YOU?
Hell YES!!!

22. DID YOU HAVE FUN AT PROM?
I guess so.

23. DO YOU STILL TALK TO THE PERSON YOU WENT TO PROM WITH?
We don't talk, but we're friends on Facebook. She's married to another woman. That's hot.

24. ARE YOU PLANNING ON GOING TO YOUR NEXT REUNION?
Probably not. I missed my 10th in 2006 because I was in Saipan. Who knows if we'll even have another one?

25. DO YOU STILL TALK TO PEOPLE FROM SCHOOL?
I talk to Selena, but we didn't go to Winter Park at the same time. I'm also the only Wildcat within 7000 miles of Saipan (that I know about).

26. FAVORITE BAND?
In high school? Probably anything associated with Gangsta Rap (Snoop Doggy Dogg, Warren G, and Dr. Dre).

27. ANYONE FROM YOUR SCHOOL BECOME FAMOUS?
Not from my school, but Senior year I made out with a girl, Dana DeArmond, from a neighboring high school, University High School, who went on to star in Gang Bang My Face 3.

28. DO YOU STILL LIVE IN THE TOWN YOU DID IN HIGH SCHOOLl?
Not even close, but my mother still lives there.

29. DID YOU FOLLOW THE CAREER PATH YOU HAD PLANNED IN HIGH SCHOOL?
In high school I wanted to be a scientist. I'm an unemployed environmentalist, so I'm at least in the same ballpark.

30. HAS YOUR LIFE TURNED OUT THE WAY YOU THOUGHT IT WOULD BE BACK WHEN YOU WERE PLANNING YOUR 'FUTURE'?
I thought I'd be married with kids by now.  Honestly, I never really though about a career much.  My goals were always travel and learning.

Gubernatorial Candidates Online

I usually link to the websites of local candidates whenever we have an election. The election this year is still 8 months out, but we already have 5 candidates for governor. They are Benigno Fitial (who has not named a running mate), Juan Pan (who also has not named a running mate), Juan Babauta (with Galvin Guerrero), Heinz Hofschneider (with Arnold Palacios), and Ramon Guerrero (I don't think he's named a running mate, either).

I think Juan Pan is the only candidate with a campaign website so far. He also has a Facebook profile (365 friends!).

Juan and Galvin have a joint Facebook profile (48 friends!) Galvin has a personal Facebook profile, too (456 friends!). Babauta's also on Wikipedia. Feel free to edit it.

Heinz and Arnold have a joint Facebook profile (53 friends!).

Governor Fitial has a Facebook, but I haven't had confirmation that it is actually him (61 friends!). It might be someone posing as him. He has his own Wikipedia page, too. Again, feel free to edit it.

I don't think Ramon Guerrero has anything online at this time.

If I'm missing something, I'd appreciate if you would leave the links in the comments section.

******
In this age of the Internet, it pays to be online. Many people credit Barack Obama as the first presidential candidate to effectively harness the power of the Internet (Howard Dean did it first, but he lost, so I guess you could say he wasn't that effective).

In this upcoming CNMI gubernatorial race, I predict that the winner will be the candidate who registers the most people to vote absentee. Hundreds of absentee ballot voters were purged from the roles after not voting in last year's delegate election. The Internet will be invaluable in identifying those voters who were purged and those people who have recently left the CNMI.

To this end, at a minimum all of the candidates should have a website with the ability to collect emails, a Facebook profile, a Facebook fan page, a Facebook group, a Myspace profile, a Friendster profile, a Youtube channel, and a Twitter profile. I would consider a blog and a number of website widgets, too.

That is my free unsolicited campaign advice.

2009 Duck Race for Cancer

I attended the 2009 Duck Race for Cancer at the Pacific Islands Club on Saturday night. The event was a fundraiser for the Marianas March Against Cancer.

There is little in life more exciting than watching 1500 plastic ducks do a lap around a resort's lazy river. Such is life on a small island.

The crowd clustered around the starting line around 6 PM to watch the ducks cascade down the big water slide at PIC.

Once the ducks were in the water, most everyone followed them along the lazy river.

It only took a few minutes for the ducks to make it to the finish line. I had sponsored 11 ducks. None of them won, but I'm okay with that.

Kudos to the Pacific Islands Club for putting together a fun even for a good cause. Double kudos to happy hour at the poolside bar (half-off appetizers, hell yeah!).

Beautify CNMI Email List

I've spent the last two weeks getting Beautify CNMI back up to speed. I've started a Beautify CNMI Facebook fan page and I've updated the email list. We'll have activities all year in 2009. If you would like to be added to the email list, please email me at angelovillagomez at gmail dot com or call me at 285 6462 and I will add you.

Fat Guy Update III

When I got on the scales at Gold's Gym this morning I was well below the 210 mark. I wondered what my no-shoes weight was, so I kicked off my Sauconies and got back on the scale. It read 207.6 lbs.

My starting weight was 212.6. That means I've lost 5 lbs since I started the Body Success Challenge.

My body feels it today. I've been doing my 60 minute runs in the morning and as a result I'm lethargic most of the afternoon. I'm only a week and a half in and I'm still pretty fat, so I'm hoping that the fatigue fades a little in the upcoming weeks.

When I made the transition from high school runner to college runner, one of my coaches told me that the most important thing to do during the off season (summertime) was to run distance. He said it didn't matter how fast you ran, only how long you ran. When we got back to school and started training with the team, he said the speed would come. Those long runs from the summer provided the foundation for building speed.

That is my philosophy right now. I'm taking it relatively easy, running 5 12-minute miles every day. In a week or two I'll start throwing in some faster runs, some shorter than five miles and some longer. Hopefully by then I'll be under 200 lbs and my knees, ankles, and heels will be able to handle the pounding I intend to give them.

Google me this

This is an excerpt from a Marc Fisher column in the Washington Post in 2005.

By using their blogs to create links from a given phrase to a particular page on the Web, googlebombers outfox the search engine's algorithm for determining what results pop up. The six-year-old practice has given us such devilish links as "more evil than Satan" to the Microsoft home page, "miserable failure" to President Bush's biography and "gastrointestinal dysentery" to a Florida restaurant that sacked a waiter for blogging about his job there.

Can you guess which google bomb is mine?

Same time, last year

Every once in a while I'll dig through the archives of this blog to see what I was doing 1, 2, 3 and now 4 years ago.

Four years ago today, in 2005, I was planning for my JET interview in Miami. You'll notice from the url of this blog that I was once a JET (Japan Exchange and Teaching Programme) applicant. You can probably guess from the content of this blog, that I am a failed JET applicant. After my interview I was put on the Alternate list and was never upgraded. Emily, my girlfriend at the time, was accepted and moved to Japan. I followed her a few months after she left.

Three years ago, in 2006, I was living in Takaoka-shi, Toyama-ken in Japan. Even though I had moved there in November 2005, my world changed when my father passed away 10 days after I touched down in Japan. I spent the entire month of December in Saipan and that is when I made the decision to move back after having lived in the mainland United States and England (and Japan, technically) for 24 years. I was enjoying a prolonged vacation, getting ready to move to Saipan.

Two years ago, in 2007, I was in Saipan doing conservation work, finishing up my contract with Marianas RC&D, starting work with MINA, and training with CNMI Men's Soccer team preparing for our first game against Guam.

Last year, in 2008, I was starting to crank up the campaign to designate the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument. I was also planning a Jake Shimabukuro concert to celebrate the second year of Beautify CNMI. Most importantly, I met Janet King for the first time.

And here we are in 2009. I'm playing coed soccer and trying to lose some weight. I'm also planning a Beautify CNMI island-wide cleanup for April. I'm 30, debt free with no kids and no girlfriend. Good times.

Fat Guy Update II

I am enjoying running again. Today was my fifth straight day of hitting the treadmill. The first day I managed about 20 minutes before my legs felt like jelly. The second day I made it to 30. The last three days I've run for 60 minutes. I ran 5 miles, 5.5 miles, and 5 miles, respectively.

My achilles heels, which have been bothering me for about a year, are feeling fine. I've stopped wearing zorries and whenever I wear leather shoes (i.e. not sneakers) I have these rubber heel cups that I use. Not only do they keep pressure off my heels, but they have the added benefit of making me 1/4 inch taller.

The exercise seems to be paying off already. Today when I got on the scale I was flirting with going under 210 (my starting weight was 212.6). I'm looking forward to getting under 200.

So the next step is to change my diet. That's the hard part. I really like pizza. And beer. And fried chicken. And loco moco. And beer. And chicken kelaguin. And strawberry ice cream. For breakfast.

A joke for Kevin

I have an 11-year old brother named Kevin. The following jokes are for him to repeat at school.

Why do elephants paint their balls red?

So they can hide in cherry trees.

And then the follow up joke:

What is the loudest noise in the jungle?

A monkey eating cherries.

If you are underage and get caught telling this joke, please tell the authorities you heard it from Brad Ruszala.

Saipan Blogger to Obama: Grow a Goatee

On October 15, 1860, a few short weeks before the Presidential Election, a young girl in New York wrote a letter to Republican Nominee Abraham Lincoln urging him to grow a beard.

Hon A B Lincoln...

Dear Sir
My father has just home from the fair and brought home your picture and Mr. Hamlin's. I am a little girl only 11 years old, but want you should be President of the United States very much so I hope you wont think me very bold to write to such a great man as you are. Have you any little girls about as large as I am if so give them my love and tell her to write to me if you cannot answer this letter. I have got 4 brother's and part of them will vote for you any way and if you let your whiskers grow I will try and get the rest of them to vote for you you would look a great deal better for your face is so thin. All the ladies like whiskers and they would tease their husband's to vote for you and then you would be President. My father is going to vote for you and if I was a man I would vote for you to but I will try to get every one to vote for you that I can I think that rail fence around your picture makes it look very pretty I have got a little baby sister she is nine weeks old and is just as cunning as can be. When you direct your letter direct to Grace Bedell Westfield Chatauque County New York

I must not write any more answer this letter right off Good bye

Grace Bedell

On October 19, four days later, Lincoln responded with the following letter:

Miss Grace Bedell

My dear little Miss

Your very agreeable letter of the 15th is received - I regret the necessity of saying I have no daughters - I have three sons - one seventeen, one nine, and one seven years of age - They, with their mother, constitute my whole family - As to the whiskers, having never worn any, do you not think people would call it a piece of silly affection if I were to begin it now?

Your very sincere well wisher
A. Lincoln

On Election Day Lincoln walked away the winner. When he took the oath of office a few months later he had a full grown beard. The rest is history.  He saved the Union, freed the slaves, and most people, Bruce Bateman being one of the exceptions, consider Abraham Lincoln to be our greatest president. Would they have thought so if he didn't have a beard?

Now imagine how awesome Barack Obama would look with a goatee. If only I knew how to use Photoshop.

******
So nobody likes the idea of a goatee. Would you settle for an afro?

Giddy as a school girl

The front page of today's Marianas Variety has a picture of Floor Leader Joe Camacho and Speaker Arnold Palacios holding a map of the proposed bombing range the US military wants in our part of the world. The map in their hands highlights an area 5x as large as the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument. As far as I can tell it includes every single island in the Marianas except for Maug and Uracas.

At the very least I should expect our leaders to give the United States Military the same warm welcome they gave the Pew Environment Group, NOAA Sanctuaries, and the White House Council on Environmental Quality.

That doesn't appear to be the case.

******
In all seriousness, kudos to Floor Leader Camacho for his personal/campaign/office website. The Marianas Range Complex website put up by the military has a lot of nothing and is difficult to navigate (where the hell is the map!), but Joe's website has info front and center. He should commission a similar website for the Legislature, so that this public service continues should he lose reelection or run for a different office.

Amateur Dining Night

Valentine's Day is the day when people who usually don't spend time in restaurants and bars go out en masse to restaurants and bars. Back in the day when I was a waiter I remember making some good money on Valentine's Day, but there was a lot of bullshit to deal with.

"Excuse me sir, my uncultured wife didn't know that Pad Thai is made with fish sauce. We're vegetarians. You should have known that because we're both wearing Birkenstocks. This is all your fault. You ruined Valentine's Day. Our children hate you."

"Pardon me, but my chubby husband doesn't like pancetta. Can he have bacon instead?"

"Does that cost extra?"

"I'd like water with lemon."

My fellow servers know what I'm talking about.

Happy Valentine's Day.

She shared her chicken

On Thursday night I went to Godfather's for a slice of pizza and two Bud Lites (yeah, Body Success Challenge, I know). Guess who I ran into?

Roberta had come in for a bite to eat, too. She shared her fried chicken strips with me (yeah, Body Success Challenge, I know).

******
Tan Holdings brings a new band to Saipan every 3 months. They play at Club V on Fridays and Saturdays and at Godfather's, Southern Cross, and Chambre on other days of the week, depending on the band and the business they bring.

Back in 2006 when they first started bringing bands to Saipan, I saw Brown Republic and Resound several times per week.  I'm less of a Club V groupie in my old age.  Or maybe I just don't like bootie dancing anymore.

Anyway, the new band, Art East, started playing last month. I saw them for the first time on Thursday.

The names of the new singers are Donna and Jem, according to Edz.

I gave them a tip and asked them to play Ghostbusters.

They didn't play it.

I hate to say this, but most of the Filipino bands that come to Saipan are pretty much the same. There is some variation in the cover songs they sing, but the songs are always cover songs.

Typically each band has a girl or two as lead singers. Sometimes the girls are smokin', like the girls from First Circle and 7th side, and sometimes they're, well, I'll just leave it at that.

******
I think the smoke in the bar gives the photos that hazy look. Here are the same pictures after using the enhance tool on iPhoto.

Slightly better. Don't you love one-touch photo editing?

Fat Guy Update I

Two years ago when CNMI played Guam in the first Marianas Cup I was the starting forward. I weighed 170 lbs. My freshman year of college I could run a 4 mile race in 22:00 and a 5 mile race in 28:00. In high school my best 5K was in the 16:00 range.

Now I weigh 210 lbs and I get tired walking over to the refrigerator.

I have no illusions about returning to my former college fitness level, but I'd like to get to the point where I can run up and down a soccer field for an entire game again.

Over the next three months I'll be playing coed soccer once a week and refereeing a game here and there. I also renewed my Gold's Gym membership.

That's it. I'll give period updates over the course of the next three months.

Fotten Gaga not Lady Gaga

Every day I get several hits from people looking for pictures of Lady Gaga. This blog has no pictures of Lady Gaga, only Fotten Gaga Ladies.

I just wanted to clear that up.

******

Speaking of spicy, the Tinian Donne Sali Festival* is this weekend! I'm refereeing soccer games tomorrow morning and I've got Beautify CNMI on Sunday, but maybe I'll shoot over there for the afternoon on Saturday.

*The MVA press release doesn't say what time the festival takes place. Oops.

Marine Monument News from Fiji

There was an extremely long article on the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument in Fiji Islands Business published on February 9, 2009.

In Saipan, where tourism and the garment industry are in free-fall, a pro-monument petition attracted 6000 signatures and the Hotel Association and the Chamber of Commerce endorsed turning the waters around the three northernmost islands—Maug, Asuncion and Uracus—into a marine national monument.

“Almost no one is able to enjoy these islands at this time,” wrote Lynn Knight, chairwoman of the association, in a letter to Bush, while monument status would “boost the local economy in promoting ecotourism”.

In contrast, the governor and most of the legislature have voiced their opposition to what they call “The Pew Monument” in language that strikingly resembles Wespac’s.

I'm not going to repost the entire article. Click the link above to read the article. In response to a comment by Jane, I will now post the entire section of the article pertaining to Saipan and the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument.

As you read this, please keep in mind that Kitty Simonds thinks I'm hot.

“The opposition was led by Wespac in every regard,” said Rick Gaffney, a former Wespac council member. “Without Wespac,” added Andrew Salas, a former Marianas legislator, “the opposition would have been minimal. There would have been a bit of grumbling because relations between the Marianas government and the federal government are pretty bad these days, but that’s it, because the overwhelming majority of the people support the monument.”

Wespac is under investigation by the US General Accountability Office and the Inspector General of the Commerce Department for suspected illegal lobbying.

In a letter to Bush that received wide publicity in Saipan, Aha Kiole, an organisation essentially created by Wespac to prevent marine reserves from being created in Hawaii, accused the president of having created the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands reserve “without the participation of the Native Hawaiian people,” all of whom feel “anger, trepidation and despair” whenever the monument “is mentioned.”

Although more than 100 hearings were held on the issue over six years, the letter asserts that most Hawaiians “did not know that the Pew Foundation was planning to take three-fourths of Hawaiian lands and make it into a monument.” (In fact, the total land area of the ten-islet monument is 13 sq km, while the rest of Hawaii totals 16,635sq km).

The Marianas monument, the letter continued, “will take an integral part of the Marianas culture away from the native people—with no hope of ever getting this part of their heritage back”.

Like all federal agencies, Wespac is barred from spending federal funds to lobby the legislative branches of state and federal government. The General Accounting Office, the investigative arm of Congress, and the Inspector General of the Commerce Department are currently both investigating allegations that Wespac lobbied the US Congress and the Hawaii legislature to push its pro-fishing, anti-conservation agenda, notably in creating Aha Kiole.

In Saipan, much of the political elite has ties to Wespac. The governor’s chief of staff, Ray Mafnas, is a senior, unsalaried Wespac official who collects over US$600 a day every time he travels for Wespac. Arnold Palacios, Speaker of the House, is a former member of the Wespac council. He wrote in a letter to Bush that the “loss of control over such a vast area of land and water is an assault on the traditions and culture of the islands.”

The representative Speaker Palacios appointed as chairman of the House Federal Relations Committee, Representative Diego Benavente, is a former lieutenant governor who is running for governor. He engineered the approval of two (sic) He was president of the Saipan Fishermen’s Association in 2005 when it got a US $150,000 grant from Wespac to rent and equip a store to sell its members’ catch.

But this past December, the Marianas Variety reported that the store had closed two months after it opened because of unexpected expenses “like utilities, rent, and salaries.”

Benavente was quoted as saying: “We ran out of money, basically.”

Valentin Taisakan, the mayor of the Northern Islands Municipality, which lies south of the three islands designated as a monument by Bush in January, also wrote to Bush in opposition to the monument.

Taisakan, who lives in Saipan, received a US$90,000 Wespac grant to create a fishing base in his remote municipality, but the base never opened, according to Saipan sources.

In another letter to Bush opposing the designation, Juan Borja Tudela, the mayor of Saipan, where most of the Marianas’ 65,000 people live, said the monument waters should be left under the control of Wespac, which he called “much more sensitive to the Pacific Islanders’ way of life.”

Wespac’s vice-chairman, Manny Duenas, head of a fishermen’s group in Guam, went further in his own letter to Bush. “The taking of our marine resources may be construed as being no different than cattle rustling” and it would “serve as a springboard to ensure the cultural genocide of a people,” he wrote.

I think that line about Mafnas getting $600 per diem is incorrect. I think only the 13 council members get per diem; the advisory councils just get reimbursed for their expenses. I'm not affiliated with WESPAC, so I actually don't know the answer.

Saipan Blog Wars II

During the fall of 2007, the anonymous bloggers of Saipan (Lil Hammerhead and Pragmatic Plato et al) attacked the blogger celebrities of Saipan (The Saipan Blogger and Jeff et al). We all had pretty much the same political views (except for Bruce Bateman, who lives in his own universe), but for one reason or another hated each other. As a result of this tiff, the celebrity bloggers all started moderating their blog comments (like Harry).  Then I went on vacation for two months and for a time things seemed to calm down.

Until this week.

An anonymous commenter on the Must Be the Humidity blog claimed earlier today to have proof that Lil Hammerhead is in fact Roberta Guerrero, the wife and business partner of Juan Pan (she's also one of my drinking buddies and one of the Friends of the Monument). Jeff Turbitt, someone who is not a fan of Lil Hammerhead, has a post about this revelation on his blog.

Is it her? Is it not her? Speculation has the Saipan blogging community in a tizzy. No comment yet from Roberta (200+ comments discuss this issue on the Must Be the Humidity blog), although she did join my Commonwealth of the Northern Marianas fan page on Facebook today. As for Lil Hammerhead, she doesn't seem to be denying it, nor is she confirming it.

I guess, as with all things, time will tell.

And for the record, I thought Lil Hammerhead was Ed Propst or Greg Sablan.

And then there is Saipan's Former #1 Korean Party Girl...

I did not create this graphic. Rick Vaughn (in Chicago?) is having a little blog scuffle with EJ Lee in Seoul.  Rick is commenting anonymously on EJ's blog, but I think I can tell which ones are his. Those two don't even live on Saipan anymore! What the hell?

And finally, I won't even mention EJ's not-so-subtle threats to kill me.

******
Ms. D, one of the semi-anonymous blog commenters out there, has been calling for some blog civility. Good luck.

Stalker

So less than a month after I open up my blog to unmoderated comments, a certain person goes full blown stalker on me. Not only has she been calling every single person I may or may not have had contact with over the last 10 years and threatened to kill my family, but she has now taken on the identity of my mother in her blog.

The comments on this blog are from here on out going to be moderated until a certain person starts taking her methylphenidate again. I apologize.

Speaking on behalf of the Friends

When I gave the interview that appeared in today's Marianas Variety, I was not speaking on behalf of the Friends of the Monument. Jun, the reporter, stuck a recorder in my face after Tuesday's Rotary Club meeting and asked me a few questions. I never said I was speaking on behalf of the Friends. I thought I was speaking as Angelo Villagomez, environmental champion.

Just wanted to clear that up.

I want to comment on the article in this blog post. I've posted it in its entirety below if you want to read it first.

So, do I think it makes more scientific sense to protect an entire ecosystem rather than a patchwork of postage stamps? Absolutely. Is that something I want to begin working on right now? Probably not.

There are a number of things that need to be worked out with the monument that we have right now. We need to focus on getting the benefits that were promised to us. Let's get that visitors center. Let's get that enforcement/research boat. Let's get a few local people hired as monument staff. Let's begin work on the draft regulations.

Once some of those benefits start trickling in, then we can start thinking about extending the protections to the full Exclusive Economic Zone and protecting the entire ecosystem.

I promise you that one day the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument will extend out to 200 miles. It will protect all of the seamounts, hydrothermal vents, whales, and other unique life within its borders. That day may not be for 2, 20, or 200 years, but I promise you that that day will come. And when that day comes, I also promise you that it will again be supported by a majority of the people of the Commonwealth, much as today's monument is supported by our political establishment, our business community, and most of our residents.

Here is the full article:

Friends of Monument yet to decide if they will pursue original proposal
BY JUNHAN B. TODENO - VARIETY NEWS STAFF

THE Friends of the Monument will not lobby the U.S. Congress to implement the proponents’ original proposal for the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument.

Angelo Villagomez of the Friends of the Monument said even during the Bush administration their group did not lobby Congress.

“We worked with the Bush administration,” he said.

Ask if they will lobby the new administration of President Obama, Villagomez said: “That has yet to be seen.”

He said even if their group decided to move forward, they have yet to know who they will work with in the new administration.

He said what their group is interested to know the benefits that CNMI will get from the monument.

They want to see the establishment of a visitor center and the creation of federal jobs for local residents, he added.

The Friends of the Monument have yet to meet to discuss what next step they will undertake after the declaration of the monument, Villagomez said.

He is hoping that the CNMI leadership will seriously focus on the benefits that can be derived from the declaration of the monument, adding that the Friends of the Monument will continue to cooperate with local officials.

Last January, Gov. Benigno R. Fitial appointed three representatives to the advisory council for the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument — Benigno M. Sablan, a member of the Western Pacific Regional Fishery Management Council; Joaquin P. Villagomez, a former member of Wespac’s advisory panel; and Sylvan O. Igisomar, the director of the Division of Fish and Wildlife.

Villagomez commended the CNMI leaders and the White House for the monument declaration.

With the creation of the advisory council, he said he is hoping that the CNMI will continue to inform the people how the monument is going to be managed. [emphasis mine]

That last paragraph makes no sense. I never said anything like it. If I was going to make a statement like that, it would be something to the effect of "I hope this monument management plan drafting process is open to the public and not simply the purview of political appointees."

Brad Ruszala's Speedo Carwash

My good friend Brad Ruszala is trying to raise money to compete in an Ironman competition in New York or someplace far away. I suggested he have a banana hammack carwash. So would you pay $10 to watch Brad wash a car wearing nothing but a speedo and the hair on this back? How much would you pay to not see that?

Saipan Biggest Loser II

I just signed up for the second installment of Gold's Gym's Body for Life/Biggest Loser/Body Success Challenge/Fat Guy Contest II. I signed up for the first one...and gained weight.

:(

My starting weight for the contest is 212.6 lbs. My final weigh-in is April 30. That's gives me about 10 weeks to lose...a lot.

Motions Magazine

I'm featured in a new magazine called Motions Magazine this month. The inaugural issue of the magazine is about going green, so they interviewed me as a "twenty-something" who does green stuff. Shhhh....don't tell them that I just turned 30.

The article starts:

In some ways, Angelo Villagomez is your typical 20-something. He ran cross country in high school and college. He was involved in karate. He plays soccer and video games and spills his thoughts on a blog.

Intrigued? The rest of the article talks about Beautify CNMI, mostly. The Marianas Trench Marine National Monument gets a mention:

These days, Villagomez spends most of his day advocating for the Marianas Trench National Monument (sic). "Now that that project is finished, I'm looking forward to focusing more on Beautify CNMI," he says. "I want to do another island wide cleanup this year."

You can pick up a copy of Motions Magazine at your local book store.

My Presidential Letter

Now that I've been home for all of 72 hours, I've begun the process of catching up on the backlog of work I was supposed to be doing these past five weeks. I've got a few bills to pay, a  number of letters to send out and so on.

We're working on our Thank You list, which we'll be adding to during the Friends of the Monument meeting tonight. Over 6000 residents and 200 businesses signed our petitions, we had over 60 volunteer petition gatherers, 50 plus people wrote letters to the President, and dozens wrote letters to the editor. We also had several associations, like the Chamber of Commerce, Hotel Association of the Northern Mariana Islands, Mariana Island Nature Alliance, and Beautify CNMI show us strong support.  We also have to thank all of our local leaders for working with the federal government on this issue.

Basically I'm saying we're going to need a lot of stamps.

******
I was mentioned in the letter from the White House to the Pew Charitable Trusts thanking them for their involvement in the monument process.

I also greatly appreciate the cooperative and effective way the Pew Charitable Trusts worked with my staff here at the Council on Environmental Quality, and I want to thank you, Joshua Reichert, Jay Nelson, Matt Rand, Angelo O'Connor Villagomez, and the rest of your staff for providing early assistance and support throughout the process. [emphasis mine]

Coed Soccer Tonight

The long drought is over. Coed soccer starts tonight!

Well, it actually started last night. I was the referee for the first game.

We're still taking on players if you are interested in playing. There are four teams this season. Games are Monday and Tuesday (you only play once per week) and the season is 10 weeks long. Contact me at 285-6462 for more info.

Come on, if Jerry Tan can lace up his soccer cleats, there is nothing stopping you from playing!

A-Fraud Juice

I am an unabashed Red Sox fan and nothing makes me happier than seeing A-Fraud Rodriguez getting caught for steroid use.

In 2003, when he won the American League home run title and the AL Most Valuable Player award as a shortstop for the Texas Rangers, Alex Rodriguez tested positive for two anabolic steroids, four sources have independently told Sports Illustrated.

As we enter the 2009 Major League Baseball season I look forward to A-Fraud getting the "Ste-----roids" chant at every single away game.

Jeff, I await your reply.

You've already used:

"...and you had a lot to do with the Red Sox winning two World Series rings in four years."

"...we won 26 World Championships...in the 20th century."

"...up yours!"

Beautify CNMI on Facebook

I recently created a Beautify CNMI fan page on Facebook. What a great tool for organizing.

Once someone joins as a fan they can post pictures, videos, comments, and post to discussion boards. I have it set up to automatically import the Beautify CNMI blog. As an administrator, I can also send a message to every single one of the fans to let them know about a meeting, a cleanup, or any other type of event. I can even target just those fans that live in CNMI. How great is that?

The last time I checked there were 109 fans for the Beautify CNMI page. The Friends of the Monument Facebook group has well over 400 members now. I'm sure Beautify CNMI will have more members than that sooner rather than later.

God, I love the Internet.

By the way, I created a Facebook group for Oreo Kenobi Villagomez. You know you want to be a member of that group.

Barack Obama visits Nan Madol

Fierce Clouds: This canoe was sailing through the lagoon as we made our way towards Nan Madol.

Tour Guide Jimmy: Today it was Jimmy's turn to show us Pohnpei.

Barack Obama in a boat: I proudly wore my Barack Obama shirt to Nan Madol. It may be the first time a sitting US president visited the historic site.

Blue Steel: It is hard too look cool when you're wearing white sneakers. Just ask Jeff Turbitt.

Main building: This is a shot of the main building from the ocean.

Inside main building: According to our guide, Jimmy, tree roots are responsible for the crumbling of Nan Madol.

Iconic pattern: I've been seeing this pattern in books since I learned to read. It is such a thrill to see them in person.

Another inside shot: I like posting pictures, what can I say?

Corner: This is the northeast corner of the main building.

Toes of discovery: I don't have any pictures of me in the kayak.

Kayak ruins: I didn't see these walls during my last visit.  Exploring in the kayak allowed me to see a lot more of the Nan Madol ruins.

Sting ray: It is hard to tell from this photo, but this sting ray was huge.


Trees and canals: A building is underneath these trees.  You can see how much the jungle has taken over the ruins because you can't even see the ruins.

Nan Madol today: Most of Nan Madol today looks like a mangrove. It has been overgrown for over 1000 years now.

Kitty Simonds thinks I'm hot

I laughed every single day of the Micronesians in Island Conservation Retreat. It may seem natural since all 20 of us work in pretty much the same field, care a lot about the same things, hail from pretty much the same geographic location and live in similar communities, and we were, after all, at a retreat: A place away from home to gain some perspective and hopefully go home recharged and ready to take on the next challenge. I enjoyed every minute of it.

I hate to admit that my job is not always fun. There were a number of times last year when I was ready to quit. To be honest, there were a number of times I wanted to move.

I'm coming to the realization now that there is no need to dwell on those days as the islands are now near unanimous in their support for the monument. In fact, as evidenced by recent press statements by Governor Benigno Fitial, Speaker Arnold Palacios, Senate President Pete Reyes, Representative Stanley Torres, Dr. John Joyner, Secretary Dela Cruz and Jack Ogomoro, there is now a tug of war going on to determine who was the strongest supporter of the monument and who should get the most recognition for their contributions!

So, in the spirit of moving past those days that doubled the amount of gray hair on my head, I offer some of the lighter moments from the campaign in this second installment of Monument Flasbacks.

******
In August 2007, long before Pew offered me a position and made the decision to promote the idea of a monument in the Marianas, I set up a meeting between Jay Nelson, Representative Cinta Kaipat (who was still in office at the time), Department of Lands and Natural Resources Secretary Ike Dela Cruz, and Senior Policy Advisor to the Governor Ray Mafnas. I forgot how long the meeting was, but it ended with Ray Mafnas telling Jay Nelson that the Fitial Administration would be happy to work with Pew Environment Group.

As we were walking out the door, Ray turned to Jay and said something to the effect of, "One thing I can say about Angelo is that he is effective. I wouldn't want to be on the opposite side of an issue with him. I know he'd win."

That meeting convinced Pew to go ahead with the campaign and Ray single handedly convinced them to hire me.

******
John Gourley was sent by the Division of Fish & Wildlife to spy on the MINA three-year strategic planning session. I've written about this before on my blog. Gourley took his own version of meeting minutes and sent them to Sylvan Igisomar who then sent them on to the governor. A copy of those two letters ended up in my hands and I was drawn to the part where Gourley wrote, "Angelo has excellent grassroots organization skills (and website, blogs, etc.) and I am sure they will be put in use if these public forums are allowed, especially if he is hired by Pew to manage the project."

******
On April 16, 2008, a WESPAC staffer in Hawaii, Joshua DeMello, wrote to a staffer at the CNMI Division of Fish & Wildlife with the warning, "Here's a heads up. Guys in DC are already talking Marianas trench monument. Sounds like its a done deal and the president is waiting to sign it."

That email sent our local government into a frenzy and within days (on Earth Day in fact), our legislature passed the first of three anti-monument resolutions. Three independent sources in the Senate told me it was written by WESPAC. It was a brilliant move by WESPAC and it nearly killed the monument.

Thus was born the phrase, "done deal," which along with, "no brainer," was something I would hear every single day for the next nine months.

******
On September 29, 2008, I, along with Dr. John Joyner of CNMI Coastal Resources Managment, briefed Bishop Camacho and all of his priests on the monument concept. I was allowed to speak first; Joyner went second.

During his speech Joyner called me a social entrepreneur in a very derogatory fashion. I had never heard of a social entrepreneur, so I went back to the office and looked it up.

A social entrepreneur is someone who recognizes a social problem and uses entrepreneurial principles to organize, create, and manage a venture to make social change.

What the hell? Did he realize he was complimenting me?

******
On January 16 of this year, I went to pay a visit to Delegate Sablan in his office in Washington, DC. As I was walking down the hallway towards his office on the fourth floor of the Canon Building, who should pass by me other than WESPAC Executive Director Kitty Simonds.

Inside his office, Greg told me that part of his discussion with Kitty had been about me.

"She thinks you're handsome," he told me.

So Kitty Simonds thinks I'm hot. It doesn't get much better than that.

MIC in the News

The Saipan Tribune reported on the 11th Micronesians in Island Conservation Retreat in an article in yesterday's newspaper.

NMI environmental leaders take part in region-wide retreat

POHNPEI, Federated States of Micronesia-Local conservation strategies and community involvement were in full display last week in Pohnpei, Federated States of Micronesia, as environmental leaders from across the region participated in the 11th Micronesians in Island Conservation Retreat.

The retreat, which lasted from Jan. 26 to 30, was held at the former Pohnpei Agricultual & Trade School in the Madolenihmw municipality of Pohnpei. The purposes of having the retreat in a remote site were so that the participants could become immersed in the local culture and community and develop closer ties with one another.

Environmental leaders from across the Micronesia region participated in the retreat. Representing government and non-government, managers and advocates, local and national levels, up-and-coming and veteran conservationists, the 20 participants hailed from the CNMI, Guam, Palau, Federated States of Micronesia, and the Marshall Islands.

During the retreat members set short- and long-term personal, professional, and institutional goals. Many of the members have similar goals, or set goals that other members have already attained. Members learn from one another and collaborate together on meeting their goals.

“As a young conservationist I can look at some of the members who have been doing this for 30 years and learn from them,” said Angelo Villagomez of Beautify CNMI.

Members also discuss common institutional and conservation challenges during the retreats. These sessions are “break-out” sessions. Members “break-out” into small groups to discuss challenges recommend ways forward and determine next steps. After meeting in the small groups, members bring their findings back to the group at large for more discussion.

One of the conservation challenges discussed by members this year was surviving climate change. Marine protected areas, like the recently established Marianas Trench Marine National Monument, were identified as a buffer to the effects of climate change.

According to Marshall Islands Conservation Society executive director Steve Why, “Our contributions to climate change are small compared to what larger nations contribute, but due to our number of low-lying atolls, the effects of climate change will arrive sooner and be more severe in Micronesia than elsewhere on the globe.”

The members also had time to become immersed in the local culture and community. On the first night of the retreat they were welcomed by the Meninkeder Lapalap of Madolenihmw municipality and participated in a sakau ceremony.

On Wednesday they visited the Enpein community and their local marine protected area. They toured the bamboo raft the community uses for monitoring and surveillance of the Enpein Marine Protected Area and were treated to a feast and another sakau ceremony in the village.

“I was really impressed by the amount of community buy-in. I would love to follow their model to get our community more involved in conservation,” commented Fran Castro of Saipan.

The two MIC members from the CNMI are Division of Environmental Quality's Fran Castro and Beautify CNMI's Angelo Villagomez. Dr. Peter Houk and Laurie Peterka from CNMI were also invited to the retreat. New members of MIC are identified by the current membership of MIC, based on the needs of the MIC network. The CNMI is expected to gain a third member in time for the next retreat.

The purpose of MIC is to strengthen the collaborative, organizational, technical, and policy skills of leaders and organizations so that, together with communities, they can advance the conservation and management of important natural areas in Micronesia.

The 12th MIC Retreat will take place in October in Palau.

Tectonic Love Story

A line from a press release in the Saipan Tribune today reads, "Come and listen to Dr. Hein describe the wonder of what happened when the Pacific Plate met the Philippine plate to form the Mariana Islands."

Sounds like a romantic love story for geologists.

I'll be sure to be there, if anyone wants to have brunch afterwards.

The Office of the Governor and the Pacific Islands Club are partnering to host a public forum on “Minerals Mining in the Marianas.” The forum will be conducted by Dr. James R. Hein, a marine geologist from the U.S. Geological Survey, and it will be held at the Charley's Cabaret at PIC on Sunday, Feb. 8, from 10am to 12pm.

I know you miss me. I've been off island for five weeks now! And a big thanks to whoever scheduled this for waiting for me to get back.

*****
It will be interesting to see who shows up for this. Every single time there was a forum that even hinted at the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument John Gourley would show up with his WESPAC boys, raise all kinds of hell, and put an end to all rational academic discussion. I hope they don't ruin this one, too.

Nan Madol Kayak Tour

Again, most of the photos are going to have to wait, but I wanted to put a few up as a teaser. I'll have them all up by the end of the weekend, once I'm back in Saipan.

Non-NMI Descent Power

Any thoughts on this one?

Six Waterfalls Hike

“If we can’t find the guide, we’ll hike up Sokehs Rock,” explained Laurie.

In order to hike to the waterfalls at Six Waterfalls you have to get permission from the family that owns the land. All land in Pohnpei is privately owned, so you can’t just go tromping through. The front desk of the hotel couldn’t get a hold of them and told us that our best bet was to just drive out to the waterfalls and look for the proper person out there.

90 minutes in the bed of a pickup truck later, driving down a dirt road on the opposite end of the island, we come upon a thin shirtless man carrying a machete and a rice sack bag.

“That’s the guy we’re looking for,” said our guide from the hotel, Billy.

After Billy spoke to him in Pohnpein, Sheldon, agreed to take us on the hike. He just said we’d have to go pick up some rope in case of a flash flood.

Billy explained that 6 Palauans had died a few years back during a flash flood and that the rope was just a precaution.

“Great,” I thought to myself.

Worth every minute: Our guides were Billy and Sheldon.

Sheldon told us it was a 90 minute hike to the first waterfall. We did it in 45.

Going down: The first portion of the hike lasted 45 minutes. We went up, down, up, and down through hills, ravines, and over streams. There was hardly an inch of solid ground. We were either walking on slippery rocks, tree roots or mud.

The trail to the first waterfall was rough, but not treacherous. Pohnpei is more mountainous than Saipan. Its topography is more like the Northern Islands. We traipsed up and down through hills, ravines, and streams. There was not an inch of firm ground the whole way. Our footholds were either mud, slippery wet rocks, tree roots, or mud. Did I mention mud? The going was slow, but nothing compared to what we would find when we arrived at the waterfalls.

Forest Photos: Yes, it was green.

The jungle at these high altitudes was lush. Like the cloud forests of Costa Rica, green was growing on green was growing on green. Vines growing up the trunks of trees were covered in moss. Fern trees reached to the top of the canopy. Bromeliads, orchids, and vines hung from tree branches and littered the ground where branches or whole trees had fallen.

On the hillside adjacent to the first waterfall somebody had planted sakau and bananas. As far as I could tell the closest house was a brisk, muddy 45 minute walk through the jungle. Why plant your sakau so far away?

Green, green, green: The vegetation, especially the tree ferns reminded me of the Monteverde Cloud Forest Preserve in Costa Rica. I think Laurie got sick of me saying that after about the 14th time.

Along the wall above the waterfall was a cave. As I inched toward it a hundred small bats dropped from the ceiling and scrambled out into the sunlight. Oops, didn’t mean to disturb you, guys.

The first waterfall turned out to be the smallest. Water poured out from a stream above, fell about 50 feet, pooled, and then continued its journey towards the river.

Cascades: This is the second waterfall. I think this picture captures a sense of how big the waterfall is and how much sound the rushing water makes.

The next few waterfalls were right around the corner, all of them cascading straight into the river.

This section of the hike, the portion where we saw the waterfalls, took us straight up the river. The river ran through a ravine with high walls on either side. We tried to stay dry if we could, but most of the time we were getting our feet wet.

Ankle deep: I thought this is how wet I would get. Wishful thinking.

The river banked back and forth as it winded its way up the mountain (or down the mountain depending on your point of view). Rocks clustered on the inside of each bend, while the outside of each bend was usually a vertical wall. It was easier to trek up the river on the inside of each bend, which meant we had to cross the river at every other curve.

Crossing was always treacherous. Every step required my full concentration to keep from falling down. Stepping on the rocks without slipping was impossible. With every step I wedged my foot into a crevice or between two rocks. The water was never deeper than mid-thigh and wasn’t moving very fast (but it was moving), but a single slip on the rocks below and I would have eaten it. My non-waterproof camera would have eaten it, too.

Making it look easy: Our guide, Sheldon, seemed to have no trouble with the slippery rocks.

We went back and forth across the river in this manner for about 75 minutes, passing the second and the third waterfalls along the way. When we reached the fourth waterfall we stopped for lunch. I found a nice round dry rock and pulled out my ham sandwich. It was about 12:30.

Lunch time scenery: We ate our lunches at the foot of this waterfall.

Lunch ended 30 minutes later just as it was starting to rain. We walked right by the fifth waterfall when we came to it. Nobody wanted to risk getting their cameras wet in the monsoon.

Proof I was there: I didn't take too many pictures of myself, this is one of the few.

We continued crossing back and forth until we reached a point in the river where it narrowed and coursed between two vertical walls, not 10 feet apart.

There would be no walking across this section. Our guide, Billy, informed us that it was time to go for a swim.

Our other guide, Sheldon, carried our cameras to keep them dry while we dove in and swam upstream towards the final waterfall.

We were not disappointed.

The final waterfall, which I have unofficially christened Six Waterfalls Cathedral, is in one of those special places fashioned by the hand of God.

Worth the swim: I don't think this photo captures how amazing this waterfall is.

The sense I got from the area was that of an outdoor room. The walls through which we swam rose ever higher, widening towards the middle, but tapering towards the end, where a magnificent two-tiered waterfall gushed out of an opening in the granite.

In place of stained glass windows was a mosaic of ferns and moss covering the entire rock face. Instead of pews, black river stones blanketed the ground. In place of an altar and a crucifix stood the waterfall, bringing life to the cathedral and everything downstream of it.

Then it was time to go.

Since we swam in, we had to swim out.

Emerging from the water on the other side I suddenly realized I was about to hike back a good 20 lbs heavier. Each of my boots was soaked through and all of my clothes from my socks to my t-shirt were drenched. We were also already three hours into the hike, and my legs were feeling every ravine we scaled during the hike in.

We did not go back the way we had come in. We spent less time on the river, which was great because the hillsides aren’t as slippery, but burned because we spent two hours climbing up and down hills and ravines.

We got back to the truck just short of five hours after we started, where an ice cold Fanta and a 90 minute truck ride back to a hot shower awaited me.

To my fellow Irish-Chamorro American:

24 years ago this July, my father, Ramon G. Villagomez, a soon-to-be judge and eventually-to-be Justice, submitted language to the Second CNMI Constitutional Convention that would ultimately become CNMI Constitution Article XIV Section 2. This language set aside the islands of Uracas, Maug, and Asuncion "as uninhabited places used only for the preservation and protection of natural resources, including but not limited to bird, wildlife and plant species."

Last month, at the urging of 6000 CNMI residents, our governor, our legislature, and our business community, President George W. Bush extending those no-take protections to about 50 miles off the shore of those three islands, creating one of the largest conservation areas on the planet. The islands unit of the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument is 12,388 square nautical miles in area, an area slightly larger than Switzerland. Additionally, President Bush protected the bottom of the Marianas Trench from bottom trawling (and you wonder why I'm a Democrat?).

Rep. Stanely Torres wrote a letter about the recent designation, which appeared in both local Saipan newspapers today.  I have added a commentary in bold:

Oil money loses — we win

IT was a great victory for the “Forces of Evil.” It was a great victory for the people of the commonwealth. It was pretty embarrassing to Pew and their breathless followers, the pew-ites. I was not embarrassed to sit 10 feet away from President Bush as he declared the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument last month. Furthermore, nobody associated with Pew or Friends of the Monument ever called Stanley a "Force of Evil." Scott Foster, a reporter in Hawaii, referred to WESPAC as a "Force of Evil" in one of his articles and Stanley, because of his association with WESPAC, took it and ran with it. He's worn an "I am a Proud Force of Evil" button every day since. At the time I didn't know Scott Foster. I have since friended him on Facebook and exchanged a few emails. I hope to buy him a beer someday.

Of course we are talking about the recently designated Marine Monument. Those that wanted some kind of additional protection in our waters got it but without the ham-handed no-take approach that the pew-sters demanded. Those who wanted perpetual indigenous access to those areas for fishing got it. Those who wanted unlimited navigation into and out of the areas or wanted access for recreation, diving and research with local government permitting got it. Those who wanted access to extraction of mineral resources got it. Those who wanted our close in territorial waters and submerged lands given back to us got it. I believe it was somebody named Angelo Villagomez who first demanded indigenous fishing rights and freedom of navigation within the monument. It know it was him, because that person is me. As for the mining and submerged lands issues, those were things promised, not granted, by the Bush Administration. Bush is cutting brush on his Crawford, Texas ranch as I write this and it will be up to the Obama administration to grant those things. Getting the submerged lands will be easy. Delegate Sablan can attach language giving the CNMI control of its submerged land out to three miles in any bill that is likely to pass. There isn't a state or territory that would deny us what they already have. The only reason we don't already have 3 miles is because certain members of our political leadership were holding out for 200. When the choice came down to 3 miles or nothing, they chose nothing, hoping to get 200 miles at a later date. As for the mining, our leaders asked the Bush administration to work on a law giving states and territories royalties from minerals extracted from federal submerged lands. Currently no law exists to do so; there are only royalties for minerals extracted from federal emergent land. Again, Bush is no longer in office, so the promise was nothing more than a promise. Regardless, deep sea commercial undersea mining does not exist anywhere in the globe, so the issue is moot.

Those who wanted to waltz in and designate a monument to themselves with no access and no-take and no extraction, fortunately did not get what they wanted. The pew-sters got a monument, but they got their collective egos handed to them in a sack as they watched their pet project completely dismantled and a whole new plan put into action that finally took into account the wishes and rights of the citizens of the CNMI. Nobody ever asked for a no access, no-take monument. This is a fabrication meant to divide the community, as I myself would not support a no-access monument. And again, if I didn't support the monument, then why was I at the signing?

Here’s how it happened: Once it became apparent that some sort of monument was going to be designated come hell or high water, the proud Forces of Evil began working lots of overtime to get something out of it for the people of the commonwealth and to make sure the final form allowed access into and extraction from the monument areas. Through talks and lengthy negotiations with Connaughton and other forces inside the Bush administration we got major concessions including reduction of the onerous 200 mile boundary to only 50 miles around our northernmost islands. We got them to designate the actual trench as a monument and we got them to allow unfettered access to those waters for fishing. We worked diligently to make extraction of valuable minerals possible and we got them to start the wheels in motion to give us full rights to our submerged lands around all of the 14 islands in the Northern Marianas. I commend the governor and the lawmakers for working with the Bush Administration. Again, the submerged lands and the minerals issues were promises made by the Bush Administration and were not granted in the monument declaration. However, gaining either concession is not a heavy lift, as I imagine most states and territories would want royalties should undersea mining activities in federal submerged lands ever become feasible and it is unlikely any state or territory would object to us having what they already have. The designation of the trench as part of the monument is an issue worthy of its own post; I'll address that at a later date. There are a lot of negative  aspects to that. I appreciate Stanley taking full credit for it.

The only way this could have worked out better was for the U.S. to back off completely and realize that these waters and lands belong to the indigenous who have protected them for thousands of years. The U.S. has the armed power to force the issue and chose to use it. As Lino Olopai put it, we ended up trading that which we already owned for use of that which we already owned in an area we already owned. But at least we got that much. Laura Bush and her dancing partner pew-ites wanted the whole shooting match leaving the indigenous as beggars in our own waters. They lost. At least we Proud Forces of Evil got some important rights returned to our citizens. The combined efforts of Governor Fitial, Speaker Palacios, yours truly and others stood in front of the federal steamroller and got it to stop in its tracks and reverse course. We worked hard to protect your interests…but that is our job. We are proud to do it. Proud to have ousted the real pewish evildoers. Proud to be Chamorro. Proud to be Carolinian. Proud to be citizens of the commonwealth in voluntary political alliance with the U.S.A. Again, I commend the governor and the other politicians for working with the Bush Administration. From day one I told anyone who would listen that there would be no monument in the Marianas without the full support of the people and the political establishment. As Stanley's letter shows, that is exactly what happened.

REP. STANLEY
MCGINNIS TORRES
16th CNMI Legislature

Stanley Torres may not understand this, but the 6000 residents and 200 businesses who came out in support of the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument were acting to protect our waters from people like him. It is beyond comprehension why somebody of indigenous heritage would want to mine our waters (if undersea mining ever becomes feasible). I also can't comprehend how he could possibly support commercial fishing. If fish are going to be caught in our waters, they need to be used to feed our people, not people in distant lands. What's the point of that? We trade them our fish for their money to buy their SPAM? Doesn't it make more sense to continue our traditional practices and eat our fish in the first place?

This type of political posturing is a total waste of time. Stanley should focus on working to improve these islands and stop trying to take full credit for the work of hundreds of people.

Pohnpei Postcards

Want a postcard? Leave your name and address in the comments or send me an email at angelovillagomez at gmail dot com.

Sakau

Sakau is not alcohol. It is a liquid extracted from the sakau plant, Piper methysticum. The chemical that gives you the high is found in the roots. All that needs to be done is to get that chemical from the roots into your blood stream.

The process of drinking sakau in Pohnpei is very elaborate. It involves a lot of custom and a lot of ceremony. There is a hierarchy involved. I don’t profess to have a full understanding of the sakau ceremony, but I think I know the basics.

Removing the sakau plant from the ground. Only the roots are used in the drink.

Sakau is made from the roots of the sakau plant. When it is ready for harvesting the plant is removed from the ground and the roots are cut up into individual stalks. When I saw it being prepared the Pohnpeian men were cutting the trunk about an inch above the root stalk and cleaning soil from the roots using coconut husks. I’m not sure what is done with the rest of the plant. Firewood, perhaps?

The roots are cut away from the rest of the plant.

The drug is squeezed out of the pulp using water and strips of hibiscus bark. The species I saw them using, Hibiscus tiliaceus, is a plant we use in some of our plantings on Saipan, so I recognized it.

Cleaning the roots with coconut husks.

Several two-inch wide strips were peeled from an eight-foot length of wood and tied together at the center. The strips were folded over on each other and then soaked in water.

Stripping hibiscus bark to be used for squeezing the sakau.

Once a large enough amount of roots are prepared they are piled onto a sakau stone, a coffee table sized slab of granite placed on the ground.

Prepared roots piled on a sakau stone.

Men remove their shirts and sit around the stone systematically pounding the roots into pulp. It looked to me like most of the men started by banging away at the thickest end of the root and moved down towards the thinner end. Soon the roots were  nothing more than a big pile of brown pulp, slightly moist from the water inside the fresh roots.

The sakau pulp is pulverized with stones.

I had a hard time distinguishing the smell, but I think it is a sort of musky peppermint. It may also have been the variety we were drinking. I’m sure not all sakau smells the same.

The banging of the pulp goes on for a long time.

When the sakau pulp was ready to be squeezed, the strips of hibiscus bark were laid out on the sakau stone and filled with some of the sakau pulp.

The sakau master then folded and twisted the bark with the sakau inside, sort of like someone squeezing water out of a towel, until a goopy brown substance started dripping out of the pulp.

The sakau is wrapped in the hibiscus bark and then squeezed like a wet towel.

At first the goop was thick and slow, but after consecutive wrappings and squeezings, it started to ooze out faster and thinner.

The sakau mixes with some slimy liquid from the hibiscus to make the drink.

When it was the proper consistency for drinking, it was captured in a coconut shell and passed around.

The sakau is then scraped out of the hibiscus bark and the process is repeated over and over.

The most important person drank first and then other important people followed, one after another, after which the sakau was offered to everyone.

Taking a drink with my eyes open. Bad form, Mr. Villagomez.

When the coconut shell containing the sakau is handed to you it is expected that you will take a gulp and hand it off to the person next to you. The cup eventually makes its way back to where the sakau is being prepared, is refilled, and is passed around again. This is repeated over and over until the drinking session ends. Depending on where you sit and how aggressive you are in letting it be known that you want to drink, you can expect a drink every ten minutes or so.

The Pohnpeian men I watched drink sakau all made an ugly face as they prepared to drink. They closed their eyes, threw back the coconut shell with flourish, and grimaced like they had just ingested something very disagreeable, which of course they just had.

When the cup was handed to me I looked down at the odorous pool of liquid with the consistency somewhere between heavy cream and snot (some of the sakau I would try was so thick that I felt I almost had to bite down to stop drinking it), I put the drink to my lips and swallowed.

It takes about two seconds for the sakau to take effect. At first your tongue and lips go numb, then your throat. It feels good.

Taking a gulp when the cup came around the second time was much easier. You are already a little numb and your sensibilities that tell you something that looks, tastes, and feels like sakau shouldn’t be ingested have dulled.

With the second gulp comes more numbness, more relaxation. I became very talkative.

As the minutes passed into hours your mind remains clear, but your body gets slower. When I stood up I felt clumsy. My motor skills were impaired, but my cognitive ability felt the same, if but a little relaxed.

I was not hung over the next morning on the nights I drank sakau. On the contrary, I felt like I slept more soundly and felt well rested when I woke up.

******
Having tried sakau three times on this trip I can now spend the rest of my life not drinking it ever again.